Vegetable-tanned Leather

Ever heard of wine?

You may have never heard of vegetable-tanned leather, but we are sure that you already heard of wine. Think of tannins from grape skins or oak barrels that add structure and color to wine. Tannins used in the process of leather tanning work similarly: they give the leather color, body, and the ability to develop character over time. This is nature doing its job – like something you may remember from childhood, tasting strong tea or smelling oak barrels.

But vegetable tanning is much more than that – and what you’re about to learn might surprise you. But let’s start from scratch.

What is vegetable tanning?

In general, leather is animal hide that has been tanned to prevent decay. Tanning refers to the process that gives leather its strength, structure, and character. There are only two ways to tan a leather – by vegetable tanning or by chrome tanning.

Vegetable tanning uses plant tannins from tree bark, wood, and other plants. The hide soaks slowly in tannin baths. The tannins bind to the hide and turn it into leather. This is a long process that takes up to 6 months and requires skill.

Tuscan heritage

Vegetable tanning is part of Tuscany’s cultural heritage – a craft preserved through centuries-old formulas. The result is leather that feels natural and ages with a rich patina. That is why high-end leather goods and horse saddles still use vegetable-tanned hides from trusted tanneries.

Tuscan tanneries specializing in vegetable tanning are grouped under the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata Al Vegetale, which regulates, preserves and guarantees the production of vegetable-tanned leather made in Tuscany through its quality trademark. The use of the quality trademark is bound to the observance of the Technical Production Regulations that all member tanneries are committed to respect.

This includes using only natural tannins, ensuring full traceability, working entirely in Tuscany, avoiding heavy metals, and minimizing environmental impact.
What began as a way to preserve the soul of traditional artisanal leatherwork has become our open and bold rebellion against disposability.

– Martin Kovács, CEO

Tannins – the magic behind leather

Have you ever wondered why trees do not rot after heavy rain season? Or why aquatic plants such as mangrove with their roots fully submerged in the water do not decay? Tannins are the reason.

Unlike most animals, plants cannot move – they have developed tannin as a natural protection from the onslaught of pathogens, such as fungi, bacteria and viruses. Once extracted from the plants, its characteristics remain unchanged. Even after a long time.

Tannin is present in wood, stems, barks, leaves, roots and fruits of any plant species. However, some plants that are richer in tannins are the most used raw materials for industrial-scale extraction. For vegetable-tanning the most suitable is tree bark from Chestnut, Quebracho and Oak. If you own a vegetable tanned leather item, such as a KOVACS Leathercraft wallet or belt, rest assured it was vegetable-tanned.

Bad odor in your leather shoes? They are not vegetable-tanned.

A research conducted in 2018 by the Department of Pharmacological and Biomolecular Sciences of the University of Milan has reported that tannins contained in vegetable-tanned leather can eliminate more than 99 % of the bacteria it comes into contact with. In our daily life, this action can particularly affect the population of bacteria responsible for the bad odor inside the footwear. Unlike common shoe disinfectants and deodorants, the action of tannins is not temporary – it’s a long-lasting solution. That’s why cowboy boots and insoles of many high end leather shoes are traditionally made from vegetable-tanned leather. If your leather footwear has bad odor, it was most likely being made from chrome-tanned leather, that doesn’t carry these anti-bacterial properties.

So why do we use vegetable-tanned leather exclusively?

Thanks to these properties. When you handle coins, bills, railings, and countless other things each day, a vegetable-tanned leather wallet retains its natural antibacterial properties for decades – all while developing a rich patina. Unlike chrome tanning, vegetable tanning is fully sustainable, environmentally friendly, and preserves the most natural appearance of leather.

So why don’t all manufacturers use vegetable-tanned leather? The reason is that vegetable-tanned leather is costly and takes significantly longer to produce (up to 6 months) than a chrome-tanned leather (matter of days). Moreover, most sellers rely on frequent replacements – they need you to buy a new product every two years or so. They are simply not interested in making a product that lasts for decades.

KOVACS Leathercraft does. What began as a way to preserve the soul of traditional artisanal leatherwork has become our open and bold rebellion against disposability. Follow the rebellion and buy yourself a product that lasts a lifetime.

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